Taquería el Trailero First stop on the way to Valle de Guadalupe was Taquería El Trailero. It is located in the El Sauzal district close to the "wine route." They really touted their birria outside on their signs so that for me was a must try. Some of Mexico's top chefs such as Benito Molina of Manzanilla eat tacos here. Bookmark on Yelp  La Cocina de Doña Esthela I ordered their famous borrego (lamb) tatemado and quesataco. I also ordered cafe de ollla (spiced coffee). I wanted to try their conchas, but it is only available on Fridays. Again, knowing some Spanish will help as that is how I communicated with the servers. Bookmark on Yelp Finca La Carrodilla I couldn't get a last minute reservation at Lechuza Vineyard (whose wine is on the wine list at the French Laundry. You must reserve at least one week in advance) so this tasting room came highly recommended from the reservation agent at Lechuza. I think more so for the breathtaking view. Finca La Carrodilla makes their own cheese. I tried three of their wines and I loved their cabernet savignon. fincalacarrodilla.mx/ Bookmark on Yelp  Housemade jam, olive oil, and cheese.  Choco, the 15-year-old dog who snacks on grapes. Fauna Restaurante en Bruma I made dinner reservations at Fauna on Open Table. The chef, David Castro Hussong, whose family owns Hussong's in Ensenada is at the helm of kitchen at this Valle resto receiving praise in the media. Chef has worked the kitchens at Noma and Eleven Madison Park, and is a promising young chef. faunarestaurante.mx Bookmark on Yelp   I ordered the experimental tasting menu of 8 courses which they told me contained some of the items on their regular menu. There is a family style prix fixe which is for parties of 4 or more. Threre were some hits and misses at the restaurant. One dish, the cream of spinach and abalone taco served with a Oaxacan tortilla was too salty. I didn't really like the duck dish because it tasted undercooked. They gave an additional 3 dishes to try so the 8 dishes became 11 for the tasting including 2 desserts. The experience was made a little uncomfortable when they asked us verbally how much I wanted to tip as they swiped my credit card. In this scenario, a service charge should have been included in the bill and if we wanted to give extra, we would leave cash. If you were on a romantic getaway or on a date and wanted to seal the deal, tonight would have been your night. The day was almost perfect in every way.   Día de Los Muertos altar  Hussong's The birthplace of the margarita. Founded in 1892 and one of the oldest bars on the Pacific coast. Livin' the Airstream Dream Criollo Taqueria Chilaquiles de borrego tatemado for our Mexican breakfast. Very hip and Austinesque in feeling. In search of something different for brunch, I found Taqueria Criollo. They specialize in chilaquiles. Bookmark on Yelp Mercado Negro de Mariscos Geoduck (pronounced goo-ey duck).  There's so much fresh seafood in Ensenada. I always enjoy walking through it whenever I'm in Ensenada. La Guerrerense Pismo clam and sea urchin tostada with a side of prepared black clams. Sabina's favorite salsa is her peanut salsa I added on top. One cannot leave Ensenada without having ceviche at Sabina Bandera's temple of ceviche. Many world renowned chefs make the pilgrimage to eat her ceviches which have won awards at the World Street Food Congress. Just across the street from her food cart that has been around since 60s is her newish restaurant serving the same ceviches and some dishes you cannot find at the cart such as their octopus tacos. I recommend going in the morning when the seafood is fresh and they haven't sold out yet. Bookmark on Yelp  I ordered a second tostada with sea urchin, octopus, and clams. I would get there early as they sell out of some seafood items. Caesar's Restaurante in Tijuana This tableside caesar salad scene never gets old. This is my third time dining at Caesar's and I love ordering the salad.   Sopes de tuetono (bone marrow). This is the one dish I've been wanting to try at Caesar's. It surely didn't disappoint. So buttery, fatty, and delicious. The same feeling I get indulging in foie gras.  We ordered the corn cake which we were told was the "least gringa dessert" on the menu.  This is my good friend Nabhe who lives in Tijuana and is native Tijuanense. She's also very proud of her Korean and Mexican heritage. I love that she always wants to take good care of me whenever I'm in Baja. She is my source for most of knowledge of the dining scene in Tijuana. She takes me to all the less touristy places that aren't even on Yelp yet. We lost touch for about a year and a half and I haven't seen her during my last couple of times I was in Baja on food trips. I'm glad that we have recently reconnected. I really missed her and her lovely smile. caesarstijuana.com Bookmark on Yelp La Mezcalera and Mi-Ja Patio Bar, hidden behind the mezcal bar and techno club Traditional mezcal tasting  Chapulines (crickets) which is very common at mezcal bars. Bookmark on Yelp Taqueria Las 3 Salsas Tijuana-style carne asada tacos. Nabhe likes this place more than Taqueria el Franc. It was crowded and has more of a local feel.  Banana -- my new favorite agua fresca. Bookmark on Yelp Goodbye Mexico. Until next time. There was hardly anyone in line at the border at around 10 pm. It looked like the SENTRI line. It was another unforgettable trip in Baja and my first time staying the night. I will surely be back again for another food, wine, cocktail, and craft beer adventure. Yes, there is a higher homicide rate this year over last year in Tijuana, but I feel that if you stay out of trouble, you'll be fine. I strongly believe in not living my life in fear. As long as the US State Department doesn't issue a travel alert for Baja, I'll continue visiting the region at least once or twice a year.
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 Crossing the border on our way to Ensenada.  We took a restroom break in Rosarito where we stopped at Splash Restaurant & Bar for some queso fundido and some welcome to Mexico drinks.  What I loved most about Splash was the hospitality of the staff and this view. A great restrooms stop on your way to Ensenada.  Many restaurants are closed on Sundays in Ensenada. Our first stop in Ensenada was Tacos Marco Antonio which was closed. Someone told us to head over to Tacos Avioneta down the street. A friend also recommended this spot.  I asked for recommendations at Avioneta and I was told to get the jugo de caguatun. A local told us in Spanish that the preparation was special at this place. My friend described it to me as marinara sauce. I don't think she was a fan. I love tomato soup and this was a lighter version with pieces of tuna in it. I've never had a tomato soup prepared this way.  jugo de caguatun  Another recommendation was this octopus in red wine sauce. There was a salsa bar with different salsa styles available. I chose this one made with mango.  Next stop on my list was La Cevicheria. It's a newish seafood spot along the main tourist drag.  Requisite michelada  Local kumamoto oysters  Sashimi of local bonito. The flavors of Baja Med cuisine. Prevalent flavor of a soy-based marinade in Northern Baja.  Another visit to La Guerrenense. I've probably been here four times now. Worth the drive to Ensenada from Los Angeles to eat her ceviches. This is a place often imitated but never can be duplicated. Many local big name chefs and celebrity chefs around the world make their pilgrimage to her street cart.  Another photo with Doña Sabina Bandera to add to my collection. I take a picture with her whenever I visit her cart and when I see her at Tacolandia every year! She doesn't speak much English but always is happy to take pictures with her customers.  I asked her for her favorite tostada and she said this award-winning uni tostada is her favorite. I ate 2 more tostadas after this one.  We walked over to chef Sabina's new restaurant, Sabina Restaurante. I ordered the prepared pata de mula (blood clams).  Chef Sabina's daughter, Mariana, was in the house. She is a doctor and now biotech entrepreneur and speaks perfect English. I asked her for her restaurant recommendations in TJ and Ensenada.  One of my friends recommended oyster shooters so we walked over to Ultramarino  A couple of my friends have never tasted a fish taco in Ensenada so we visited Tacos Fenix taco stand. They weren't as good as my last visit. These were sitting out so they weren't that fresh and crisp. These are among the best in the area. The original place I wanted to visit is closed on Sundays.  Chef Sabina's daughter and chef Roberto de Anda from La Cevicheria recommended Ophelia. Mariana eats there with her mother. You know if chef Sabina and her daughter eats here that it must be excellent.  Located along the main drag. One could easily pass by this restaurant. Lucky for us the locals who know food told us to locate this place for dinner.  We ordered Mariana's favorites -- the ahi tuna tostada. I could have eaten this whole plate. We were so full so we shared it between the four of us.  ... and the shrimp sopes. The service was outstanding on par with some of the best restaurants in Mexico. This is more of locals spot, hidden from the cruise-ship tourists that hangout along the main drag. Our dishes were refined Baja Med cuisine. Service was friendly and attentive. When I used the restroom in their outdoor patio. When we arrived there was live music on the patio. Our server even offered me a seat while I waited for the restroom and placed a blanket on me. Next time, I'm coming back to Ensenada with a bigger appetite. |
Hello, I'm Anne.I was born and raised in Los Angeles, and I love exploring Los Angeles like a tourist. I have as much fun in my hometown as I do traveling in another country. I live to eat (good food) and travel! Categories
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