Baja California 2018 - Valle de Guadalupe, Ensenada, Tijuana

Taquería el Trailero

First stop on the way to Valle de Guadalupe was Taquería El Trailero. It is located in the El Sauzal district close to the "wine route." They really touted their birria outside on their signs so that for me was a must try. Some of Mexico's top chefs such as Benito Molina of Manzanilla eat tacos here.

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La Cocina de Doña Esthela

I ordered their famous borrego (lamb) tatemado and quesataco. I also ordered cafe de ollla (spiced coffee). I wanted to try their conchas, but it is only available on Fridays. Again, knowing some Spanish will help as that is how I communicated with the servers.

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Finca La Carrodilla

​I couldn't get a last minute reservation at Lechuza Vineyard (whose wine is on the wine list at the French Laundry. You must reserve at least one week in advance) so this tasting room came highly recommended from the reservation agent at Lechuza. I think more so for the breathtaking view. Finca La Carrodilla makes their own cheese. I tried three of their wines and I loved their cabernet savignon.

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Housemade jam, olive oil, and cheese.

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Choco, the 15-year-old dog who snacks on grapes.

Fauna Restaurante en Bruma

I made dinner reservations at Fauna on Open Table. The chef, David Castro Hussong, whose family owns Hussong's in Ensenada is at the helm of kitchen at this Valle resto receiving praise in the media. Chef has worked the kitchens at Noma and Eleven Madison Park, and is a promising young chef.

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I ordered the experimental tasting menu of 8 courses which they told me contained some of the items on their regular menu. There is a family style prix fixe which is for parties of 4 or more.

Threre were some hits and misses at the restaurant. One dish, the cream of spinach and abalone taco served with a Oaxacan tortilla was too salty. I didn't really like the duck dish because it tasted undercooked. They gave an additional 3 dishes to try so the 8 dishes became 11 for the tasting including 2 desserts.

The experience was made a little uncomfortable when they asked us verbally how much I wanted to tip as they swiped my credit card. In this scenario, a service charge should have been included in the bill and if we wanted to give extra, we would leave cash.

If you were on a romantic getaway or on a date and wanted to seal the deal, tonight would have been your night. The day was almost perfect in every way.

Día de Los Muertos altar 

Hussong's

The birthplace of the margarita. Founded in 1892 and one of the oldest bars on the Pacific coast.

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Livin' the Airstream Dream

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Criollo Taqueria

Chilaquiles de borrego tatemado for our Mexican breakfast. Very hip and Austinesque in feeling.

In search of something different for brunch, I found Taqueria Criollo. They specialize in chilaquiles.
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Mercado Negro de Mariscos

Geoduck (pronounced goo-ey duck).

Mercado Negro

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There's so much fresh seafood in Ensenada. I always enjoy walking through it whenever I'm in Ensenada.

La Guerrerense

Pismo clam and sea urchin tostada with a side of prepared black clams. Sabina's favorite salsa is her peanut salsa I added on top.

One cannot leave Ensenada without having ceviche at Sabina Bandera's temple of ceviche. Many world renowned chefs make the pilgrimage to eat her ceviches which have won awards at the World Street Food Congress.  Just across the street from her food cart that has been around since 60s is her newish restaurant serving the same ceviches and some dishes you cannot find at the cart such as their octopus tacos.

I recommend going in the morning when the seafood is fresh and they haven't sold out yet.

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I ordered a second tostada with sea urchin, octopus, and clams. I would get there early as they sell out of some seafood items.

Caesar's Restaurante in Tijuana

This tableside caesar salad scene never gets old. This is my third time dining at Caesar's and I love ordering the salad.

Sopes de tuetono (bone marrow). This is the one dish I've been wanting to try at Caesar's. It surely didn't disappoint. So buttery, fatty, and delicious. The same feeling I get indulging in foie gras.

We ordered the corn cake which we were told was the "least gringa dessert" on the menu.

This is my good friend Nabhe who lives in Tijuana and is native Tijuanense. She's also very proud of her Korean and Mexican heritage. I love that she always wants to take good care of me whenever I'm in Baja. She is my source for most of knowledge of the dining scene in Tijuana. She takes me to all the less touristy places that aren't even on Yelp yet. We lost touch for about a year and a half and I haven't seen her during my last couple of times I was in Baja on food trips. I'm glad that we have recently reconnected. I really missed her and her lovely smile.

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La Mezcalera and Mi-Ja Patio Bar, hidden behind the mezcal bar and techno club

Traditional mezcal tasting

Chapulines (crickets) which is very common at mezcal bars.

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Taqueria Las 3 Salsas

Tijuana-style carne asada tacos. Nabhe likes this place more than Taqueria el Franc. It was crowded and has more of a local feel.

Banana -- my new favorite agua fresca.

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Goodbye Mexico. Until next time.

There was hardly anyone in line at the border at around 10 pm. It looked like the SENTRI line. It was another unforgettable trip in Baja and my first time staying the night. I will surely be back again for another food, wine, cocktail, and craft beer adventure. Yes, there is a higher homicide rate this year over last year in Tijuana, but I feel that if you stay out of trouble, you'll be fine. I strongly believe in not living my life in fear. As long as the US State Department doesn't issue a travel alert for Baja, I'll continue visiting the region at least once or twice a year.